I hate myself so much when I leave a week or more between diary blogs! And, oops, I’ve done it again. Would be ok only I have such a shocking memory so have to work hard to remember what we did!
We decided to spend a third night at the Vila Cha campsite and have a second day in Porto. So we retraced the steps of the day before – taxi and metro into the city – but stayed on the metro a little longer to go across the top level of the bridge. From the other side at that level were marvellous views. We then walked back across the top level of the bridge, past the cathedral (but not in it as there were huge queues to pay respects to the bishop who’d died a couple of days before) and down to pick up one of the antique trams that run around the city. We did the route that goes alongside the river right out to the coast. Had lunch there sitting outside a restaurant with an enormous number of flies (but the food was good) and then caught the tram, then metro then taxi back again.
There’s a national park the Penedes-Geres in the north of Portugal and we wanted to visit there, so headed off northwards and inland. Another campervanner we’d met at Peniche had told us of a good place to spend the night beside a reservoir so we headed there by some scenic routes.
Very exposed spot by that reservoir and pretty cold too – the combination of being later in the year and further north means we’ve had a very rapid change in temperatures! Made a rookie mistake in the evening – we’d drunk some wine then decided to move the van to face into the wind rather than side on, so it didn’t rock as much in the gusts. Stupidly we left both glasses on the table while we shuffled the van around to a level spot we were happy with. Both glasses fell off and broke, of course. You’d think after 5 months we’d be more clued up! (Luckily we brought 4 wine glasses with us so don’t worry, we will still be able to drink wine!)
We headed into the national park on a back road. Passed two dogs in a cart, and a woman knitting in a field while she tended her two cows. And no one else for hours. Very beautiful scenery.
Eventually reached Geres where we had a look around the small town, and then parked up for the night at a car park just out of town. Had a (not great) meal out in a nearby restaurant.
Time to head out of Portugal and back into Spain. The road north from Geres continued through the national park, got rougher as we reached the border, and then suddenly much better once we were in Spain. Probably the prettiest border crossing we’ve done.
In Spain we stopped at a sweet little town named Celenova where we nearly got to look around a monastery and its attached church but everything seemed to be closed. From there on we were on motorways and making much quicker progress towards our destination for the day – Santiago de Compostela. We reached a sports centre car park listed in Park4Night, and walked into town from there. Huge hill walking in! We visited the cathedral and explored the beautiful old town. Lots of people with rucksacks around who’d hiked the pilgrimage trail!
We decided to have our evening meal in the city and found a small cheap restaurant. Santiago had been on my list of must-see places for a long time. It certainly has charm and although busy most of the people seem to stick to the cathedral and main squares, so you can easily escape them all on side roads.
We debated going back into the city but couldn’t face that steep walk in, so instead decided to move on, westwards towards Cape Fisterra. The Romans thought this was the most westerly part of Europe (and hence the edge of the world) but actually Cabo da Roca in Portugal is further west. The drive here was gorgeous – slow twisty roads alongside bays and inlets. The further west we got the more it felt like the west of Ireland (only with different architecture and better roads) or Scotland, or Cornwall or Brittany. Of course these are all Celtic places bordering the Atlantic!
Along the way we stopped to look at a couple of small fishing towns and also at a waterfall that falls into a salt water inlet (very few do this).
Just beyond the town of Fisterra is the cape, and a lighthouse, and a great place to park for the night. We had a look around the headland. Many Santiago pilgrims continue to here and leave mementoes (walking sticks, shoes, photos of themselves and little notes) tucked under the rocks.
Onwards around the coast, heading north. Galicia is a lovely part of Spain to visit if you like wild coastline. (And I do.) Again we stopped at a couple of small fishing towns. Eventually arrived at A Coruna which is a largish city I’d managed to never hear of, but it is lovely and well worth visiting. A nightmare to drive around however, even the satnav was totally confused. We managed to find a car park by the acquarium where you can spend the night but it’s a way out of the main city, on a headland.
Spent the afternoon walking round the headlands here and I went up the Torre de Hercules. This is an old Roman lighthouse. The outer shell was rebuilt in the 1800s but the inner tower is Roman with a staircase added. It’s still a working lighthouse though they have replaced the old giant oil lamps with electric…
Ignatius decided he ought to visit the Roman lighthouse too, so he went up it this morning. We then moved the van to a dedicated (and expensive) campervan park at a marina nearer the interesting bits of town. Walked around from there, past a cruise ship that had come in (and there were English voices everywhere!) and around the town. It’s an odd shape – there’s the headland where we’d spent the night, the centre of town on an isthmus and a long sweep of sandy beach. All very pleasant.
Left A Coruna in the afternoon and headed along the coast north-eastwards, ending up at Spain’s most northerly point at Bares, where there’s a lighthouse. Very pretty spot. We are drawn to these wild and remote headlands! Spent the night here, once more with a lighthouse beam sweeping the van every few seconds (but with the blinds down you’re not disturbed by the light).
Time to head east, as we need to pick up our son Connor from Santander tomorrow evening. The first part of the route was still on slow roads hugging the coast, and we stopped at Viveiro which has a lovely beach and looks like a sweet little town. A little further on near Ribadeo was an amazing beach with loads of stacks and arches. We got wet wading from one cove to the next. Got to bring Connor back here!
From there we were on the motorway and drove as far as Gijon – a large city in Asturias. We parked just east of the city at a car park on a headland, and the city prom stretches round as far as here. Had a walk to look at the view in each direction. There’s no time to explore Gijon so that will have to wait for a return trip to northern Spain – am sure there’ll be one in time!
Today is all about preparing for Connor’s visit. He arrives this evening around 9.30pm. We drove this morning the rest of the way from Gijon to Santander, and arrived at a Carrefour petrol station running on fumes, where we put 81 litres of diesel into our 80 litre tank… (ok so it might be 85 litre tank, I am not sure but even so, bit close to the wire!)
Shopped for Connor then out to a headland just north of the city where there is a lighthouse – we might come back here to spend the night and keep the theme of capes and lighthouses going a little longer!
There are a few hours before we need to head to the airport, time to clean the van and catch up on blogging etc.