Sicily is one interesting place to take a Motorhome.

The general Sicilian driving behaviour is less ‘structured’ than the UK. Parking often resembles ‘vehicle abandonment’. The surfaces leave ‘a little to be desired’ on the majority of roads and expansion joints, of which there are many, seem to be more of a challenge than I remember in many other countries. But it is interesting and beautiful topography to have to build roads through. A lot of tunnels (with lighting that won’t overly trouble the Global Warming situation!), bridges and raised roadways.

If you’re not a very confident and assertive driver (or cyclist for that matter) then some of the villages and towns will be a challenge, especially Palermo which is just mad, but in a very endearing way.

Having said all that Sicily is a much less frustrating place to drive around than many parts of Britain, just a lot more chaotic.


The weather is pleasantly warm and sunny at this time of year (Apr/May) although we did have Saharan dust come visit for a day or so. The overnight rain left a much bigger mess than the occasional dump we get in the south of England.

Saharan dust cloud over Castellammare


Sicilian food is generally an interesting mix of mainly fish and vegetables. Being Italian there is plenty of pizza and pasta. Kath is addicted to caponata, a classic Aubergine sweet and sour vegetable which is extremely moreish. Street food is a great way of experiencing Sicilian cuisine. We stumbled upon ‘the Spice Man’ in the Palermo street markets. Apparently, he featured in The Times and was on Rick Stein’s programme about Palermo. We had a very agreeable lunch time experience at his establishment … a few plastic tables and chairs in the middle of a very busy food market.

Street food lunch – the post eating photo                                                                                                     … by way of contrast to the pre eating photo usually taken at fine dining restaurants!


Architecture, archaeology, monuments, churches and ruins are scattered everywhere you look. Sicily has had a fascinating mixture of cultural influences over the years which has left behind some great structures for us to look and ponder today. How many churches does one small island need?


… bit of natural architecture


And then there’s Etna ….

I’m still a learner at the Sicilian ‘vehicle abandonment’ parking style!



To Sicily…and beyond!

23rd April

After the disappointment/adventure of the Amalfi coast we decided to head down to Sicily over the next couple of days, using the autostrades and finding nice campsites by beaches if possible. We have a couple of campsite guidebooks – one is the ACSI book which lists good quality campsites at which you can get a discount out of season, using the ACSI card (which we have). They’re mostly a flat rate of 17 euro a night and have decent facilities. The other book we’re using is Camperstop europe which lists aires, sostas and campsites in all countries we are planning on visiting. Some are free, some are full price but there are loads of them, and this book has become the bible for us.

Anyway on 22nd April we ended up at a lovely site with the friendliest manager, right by a beach, somewhere near Salerno. I took the opportunity to wash the sheets and dry them on a washing line made of string held up by Gertie and a fence post. It was windy and they dried in no time but I was scared we’d lose them!sheets

The next night (23rd) at a stop near Palmi way down in the south of Italy, we were once again by a beach and spent a very pleasant evening sipping beer outside a tabacchi and watching the sunset. I could get used to this life…sunset

24th April

And on to Sicily! 3 weeks to the day since taking the ferry from Poole to Cherbourg we put Gertie on another ferry from Villa San Giovanni to Messina. Somehow we found ourselves on a ferry used mainly by trucks which didn’t actually dock in Messina (imagine our horror as we chugged on past the Messina port, wondering where we were going to end up and would it even be Sicily at all?) but ended up about 10km further down the coast. No problem – it was easy to hop on the motorway from here and get to where we’d planned to spend the night (another lovely little campsite beside a beach). Here’s Gertie on the ferry, from above. She has a busy roof – 2 skylights, a solar panel and a satellite dish.ferry to sicily

We spent the evening doing a bit of planning of the next few days, then discovered the free wifi was fast enough for us to consider streaming the last episode of Broadchurch, via TunnelBear. Great to catch up on it at last!

25th April

There had been talk of an early morning swim in the sea, but it was pretty cold so I only got as far as paddling, while still wearing my PJs. It’s a hard life.paddling

We then spent a few hours driving most of one of the stages of this year’s Giro d’Italia. The route climbed through beautiful mountainous country, amongst gorgeous beech woods, and then around a corner suddenly there was the view we’d been waiting for, of Mt Etna. That wispy cloud is steam from its crater – it is almost continuously active.etna view

Many hairpin bends later, we arrived at the ski resort area of the mountain, on the south side. Obviously this is out of ski season (we’d have been tempted otherwise!) and this is where the Giro stage will finish. We’d eyed up several laybys where we could park the van for the night before, to cheer the cyclists on.

At the ski resort car park, we discovered you can (for 12 euro) park overnight. I’ve never spent a night on an active volcano before, so it had to be done. We explored the area, walked up a very steep ash and pumice-stone path to view a crater from the 2001 eruption, ate in the hotel restaurant, watched an episode of Game of Thrones and settled down to sleep at nearly 2000m. It was pretty cold.etna

26th April

Awoke to temperatures of 9 degrees in the van. The heating had to go on for a bit! Drove back down the mountain and across the interior of Sicily, all the way to Palermo. On arrival at our camperstop here the temperature was 31 degrees.  Much of motorway driving in Sicily looks something like this, as there are an awful lot of tunnels. You feel like you are driving down into mines. They don’t believe in overdoing the lighting.tunnel

Driving in Palermo is very stressful. We are at a basic camperstop (a campervan dealer’s backyard!) which is fairly central and which has toilets and a shower. We cycled this evening into the city centre – cycling in Palermo is also very stressful – and had a very pleasant meal out. Tomorrow we’ll explore the city properly  – on foot.