We’ve been home three weeks and are no nearer sorting out our photos… However I have gone through and picked out a number which illustrate the kinds of roads we drove on – some great, some scenic, some not entirely suitable for Gertie… Many of these photos were taken through the windscreen as we drove along, so they should give you a good impression of what life on the road was like. Sigh. I miss it.
An overview of the stats …
We spent six months travelling through seven countries;
France (38 nights), Italy (78), Croatia (15), Bosnia Herzegovina (1), Switzerland (4), Spain (28), Portugal (16). Plus 4 nights in UK and 1 on ferry.
Took five ferries; Poole – Cherbourg, Villa San Giovanni – Messina, Messina – Villa San Giovanni, Dubrovnik – Bari, Bilbao – Portsmouth.
Two flights; return Bergamo – Manchester.
Drove 20,500 km.
Of the 185 nights, we spent 71 at campsites, 30 wild camping, 51 in car parks, 28 at Aires, 4 in Fionn’s flat and 1 on a ferry.
We spent €3,000 on diesel, €1,500 on nightstops (average €8.54/night), €1,000 on ferries, €385 on tolls, €1,100 on main repairs, €200 on replacement bike and €77 on LPG.
We had ~ 220 coffee stops, which considering we generally had something ‘nice’ with the coffee probably amounted to ~€1,000.
Dinner out ~30-40 times, lunch ~60-70, which means we prepared ~ 400 meals in the van … in some stunning locations!
My personal highlights were …
Travelling with Kath, a very agreeable travelling companion!
City – Bolzano
Region – South Tyrol
Country – France (obviously!) but really liked Italy (and Portugal, and Spain)
Sea shore – Croatia.
Campsite – Camping Stobrec outside Split.
The trip inspired future trips …
France (endless possibilities)
South Tyrol and the Dolomites.
West coast of Portugal
North west coast of Spain.
These ‘stats’ or any possible words could not describe the immense enjoyment we had.
I will wrap up with one thought.
Voyager c’est vivre – get a Motorhome and go travel 🙂
I have put up the route page detailing our journey through Northern Spain. It is the last route page as we left Bilbao on a ferry for Portsmouth.
We had eighteen days and covered 1,633 miles in Northern Spain.
Our nightstops were four nights in two campsites, four nights wild camping, six nights free in car parks and three nights in aires, one of which was free.
We stuck mostly to the coast, going in land mainly to visit the mountainous Picos de Europa. Connor joined us for a week, flying in and out of Santander with Ryan Air (which turned out to be an achievement in itself!).
We retraced our steps, somewhat, between Praia das Catedrais and Santander , getting to know the A8 quiet well. Fortunately it’s mostly a toll free motorway.
Highlights include Santiago de Compostela, the Galicia region (north west) in general, Gijón, San Sebastian, the Picos and many places along the coast too numerous to mention.
Another region we’re planning a return visit too.
You will need to visit the blog to read the detail and see the pictures! For non-bloggers, click here and then ‘Northern Spain’.
We got back safely on Thursday night, after a 28 hour ferry crossing. Drove home from Portsmouth and were in the house around 10.15pm. The car wouldn’t start, having sat on the driveway for 6 months, so Gertie had to be parked in the street. And the boiler wouldn’t turn on, so despite the chill (compared with Spain!) we could not turn on the heating, although we could use the immersion for hot water.
Friday was my birthday. After breakfast out we called our local garage to come and sort out the car (they replaced its battery and re-enabled the immobiliser) and fiddled with the boiler until it came on. Finally Ignatius was able to go shopping for ingredients for the roast chicken dinner I had requested as a birthday meal. After 6 months of food cooked on 3 gas burners I was longing for something oven cooked! I was also longing for a long hot soak in the bath. Bliss!
Now, three days on, we’ve unpacked the van, cleaned it inside, done many loads of washing and got up to date with post and paperwork.
And tomorrow I am back at the day job. Can’t say I am looking forward to that, but I can say I’ve absolutely made the most of my 6 months long leave. What an experience it’s been!
I’m writing this sitting in the van in a car park which is overlooking a sweet little fishing port, just a few minutes drive from the Bilbao ferry port. It’ll be the last Diary entry on this blog, though we’ll do some reflective wrap-up posts after we get home.
After writing the last blog Connor and I went down to the beach and in the sea. It was quite rough – lovely crashing waves – and we played catch and Connor recreated all the games he’d invented when we were last here, when he was 12. Lovely to see him regress like that!
Beautiful day – sunny but not too hot (around 22 degrees) so we decided to spend the day at the beach and campsite. Firstly though, to give Connor the full campervanning experience, we had a minor problem to sort out – a water leak. Thought it was the boiler for a while but it turned out to be the bathroom sink waste had disconnected itself again. It’s now duck-taped up. That’ll teach it.
I bought a cheap kids’ surfboard at the campsite shop, and we went down to the beach. Played catch, played on the far-too-small surfboard, sat in the sunshine. All very enjoyable. Although we have been to lots of beaches on this trip this was actually the only time we sat down on one (we are too pale-skinned to sunbathe!)
In the campsite all around us the caravans that had been there for the whole season were being packed up and towed out. A real end-of-season vibe about the place.
Connor’s last day with us. We drove first to Isla, the small town the other side of the river that flows out at Playa Joyel. Had coffee there. At low tide you can wade across the river from Playa Joyel.
Then drove on to Santander, where we parked up in an aire by the university. Great aire but not a great location for seeing the city. Nevertheless we walked down to Santander’s attractive beach, and from there up a main road and through a 600m tunnel to the city centre. Yuk. We wandered around for a bit – it’s a nice enough place to while away a few hours. Walked back to the van making use of a funicular up the hill rather than brave that horrid tunnel again.
We drove back out to the marina where we’d spent the first night with Connor to have dinner, and then dropped him off at the airport for his late evening flight. It’s been wonderful having him with us for a week. We’re so glad both boys made the effort to come out and join us for a while in our travels.
Ignatius and I decided to go back to the university aire rather than the marina for the night.
First stop today was a supermarket to buy a few bits of food to last us the final few days. Then onwards round the coast eastwards, picking out any scenic roads. Connor seems to have taken the good weather away with him as it was drizzly and grey all day. We found what we thought was a good place to park for the night – on a headland by a lighthouse and you know how much we like those! I went for a walk, ended up getting wet and muddy as the path was very overgrown. And then the lighthouse’s foghorn started up, and we realised we did not want to spend the night with that going off every couple of minutes!
Drove to another nearby place showing on Park4Night but it had no mobile data reception and we didn’t fancy it, so we ended up in a layby near Bermeo, with a view of the town and the sea, and a strong smell of fish.
Another dreary day weather-wise. We drove inland to Guernika, a small town that was carpet-bombed during the Spanish civil war and then inspired Picasso’s famous painting. It has always been a centre of Basque government, and the old parliament building escaped the bombing and can be visited, along with the generations of oak trees under which the politicians originally met. Interesting place – we enjoyed our couple of hours poking around here in the drizzle.
Drove on via roads that I’m sure are very scenic if the mist would lift, and ended up at an isolated cliff-top car park somewhere. The only other van there when we arrived was another British-registered Hymer. We got talking to the couple (Lee and Suzanne) in it, walked with them to the nearby viewpoint, and after dinner they came round for drinks. It’s always lovely to meet new people and have a good chat about our respective experiences. They live in their van most of the year and were heading south to Portugal for Christmas.
More rain, so after a lazy start and saying goodbye to Lee and Suzanne we pushed on to San Sebastian. After a bit of driving round checking out car parks and calling at the tourist information we ended up in the official campervan aire on the edge of town (near the university again!) Spent the afternoon walking down to the sea front. We visited San Sebastian on a camping trip about 10 years ago. Lovely town, even in the bad weather.
Today was our 25th wedding anniversary, and also the last full day of our trip. When I booked the time off work a year ago I wasn’t sure if we’d come back earlier in September but we always thought it would be nice to be away for our anniversary and do something special. So a few days ago we’d researched fine dining restaurants in the town and had booked lunch at Kokotxa, a Michelin-starred restaurant in the old town.
After six months in a campervan it’s hard to polish yourself up to go to a posh restaurant. I struggled particularly with shoes as my only half-decent pair tore a couple of weeks ago, so I had to team my going-out frock with a pair of Decathlon walking sandals. Anyway who’d be looking at my feet?
We caught a bus into town, went to a Basque cultural museum (which should have been fascinating but was confusingly laid out) and into a couple of churches before it was time for our lunch.
The food was amazing. Beautiful to look at, even better to taste. We had a tasting menu of tomato gazpacho, squid, a soft-shell crab that was delicious and I want to eat it every day for the rest of my life, an exquisite fish course, beef fillet and then dessert. We drank a glass of Cava, then white wine then red with it. Lovely.
From the restaurant we walked around the sea front to a hotel where we had a rather pricey cocktail each, then on to a beach bar for another drink (Ignatius had Guinness), and then back to a bar near the camperstop for a final beer. Great way to spend our anniversary, and it didn’t rain too heavily – just drizzled all day.
Last night was the last night in the van. This morning we had our last breakfast in it. The sun’s come out again at last to wave us off. We drove via the motorway back to Bilbao, called at a hypermarket to stock up on wine and Cava, then came to this little car park by the fishing port. Nice spot for lunch and to spend our last few hours before it’s time to go to the ferry.
We should get home late tomorrow night. It’s hard to believe it’s all come to an end, but we feel we made the most of the six months. We’ve had some brilliant experiences and have built up a store of incredible memories.
There are several thousand photos to sort out, of course – but that’s a job for rainy Sunday afternoons at home.