Our journey round Europe has been an interesting coffee experience.
Both of us like black coffee, no sugar. But ‘black coffee’ comes in many strains, from an intense Italian espresso to the soup bowls of ‘americano’ you get in Britain.
Our coffee of choice is a cup with ‘diluted’ espresso, preferably letting the water run through the grinds for a bit longer than an espresso or at worst adding a little hot water to the espresso.
In Italy, outside of touristy areas you can get away with asking for Caffè Americano and get a decent coffee. In tourist areas they can assume you want a coffee like the Americans want and serve it large with a lot of water .. or dishwater as the Italians refer to it! Says it all really. In these situations you have to enter into discussions along the lines of a plumber telling you it’s a tricky job, make a face, suck air through your teeth, say stuff like Americano but with poco acqua calda (bad Italian for little hot water) and hope for the best. If it arrives as decent cup, exclaim perfetto, if not make another face, shrug your shoulders and hope for better next time!
In Italy, if you don’t want to risk the Americano challenge you could try asking for Caffè Lungo which should get you a long coffee made with espresso.
This should get you the desired coffee in France. Just be careful that occasionally you could end up with a filter (drip) coffee. You can try Americano but the two dangers in France is the large cup of watery coffee or the French just shrugging their shoulders and looking at you as if you’re mad and have asked them a complicated theoretical physics question!
This should do the trick in Spain … remembering to roll that ‘r’ !! But occasionally you may have to enter into the Italian game of a little hot water (con poca agua caliente).
My bad Portuguese pronounces this as Abba-tan-ah-doh but it generally works with getting an ‘extended’ espresso.
Be warned Americano can sometimes get you instant coffee in Portugal!
In our travels across a small part of southern Europe it is hard to disagree that Italy has the best coffee and coffee culture. But using a little local knowledge and language can get you decent coffee no matter where you are.
But the morning coffee is not just about the coffee … what do you have with it. Some small, sweet, pastry type thing surely!!
We have raved on previous blogs about Italian cornetto (a sweet croissant filled with jam, cream, chocolate) and cannoli (crispy pastry roll with creamy ricotta filling and flavourings of lemon, chocolate, pistachio). Perfetto!
In France you can have pain au chocolat, raisin etc. but our current favorite is the Portuguese Pastel de Nata, a small custard tart with crispy pastry.
I’m not sure about Spain … they didn’t seem to have a sweet morning coffee accompaniment. The locals in southern Spain seemed to prefer bread and ham. Very nice ham they have too … but missing the point really 🙂