On to Portugal!

31st August

We’d been preparing ourselves for the heat of Seville, and yes it was hot. On bikes you generate a pleasant breeze as you cycle, and thankfully Seville is a great place to cycle around as it has a lot of well marked cycle paths. Not in Bolzano’s league but way better than most cities. We headed off fairly early to try to see as much as possible before the heat really built up.

After the usual tourist information office and coffee shop stops, we arrived at the cathedral. There was a queue to get in, but only because it hadn’t yet opened. Once inside there was a very good self-guided audio tour to follow. Latest measurements suggest that this cathedral is bigger than St Paul’s London, and bigger than St Peter’s Vatican. So, very big then! It is huge. Loads of side chapels, all containing countless works of art. Lots of gold everywhere. We spent quite a long time in it and were suitably impressed.

Seville cathedral exterior

You know a town is hot when they have shades draped across the streets, and when the outdoor tables of restaurants are supplied with a constant mist of cooled water. We ate at one of these and those cooling sprays do work. Kind of outdoor air conditioning. As mad in the opposite direction as the outdoor heated swimming pool I’ve been in at Alpe d’Huez in winter.

We visited another church as well, also jaw-droppingly ornate. And then headed out of the centre on our bikes to some shady parks which were very pleasant to pootle around.

plaza d'espana
Plaza d’Espana, Seville. Would have been nice to dive into that fountain!

Left Seville late afternoon for the drive into Portugal. We’d vaguely planned to stop at a beach car park not far from the border but all the car parks turned out to be packed with people still on the beaches. Finally we reached a camperstop a little way inland. Quirky place – it had a loo and shower and electricity, but was basically just a field with a couple of permanent caravans in it. And a bloke with cute puppies.

1st September

Our plan today was to try out a couple of the famed Algarve beaches and then get to a campsite. First beach we stopped at was nice enough, and we went for a swim. Second beach was Marinha Beach, ranked amongst the best in the world. It was very busy, but we were only there to swim not to grill ourselves. You can swim into caves and through rock arches here. Absolutely beautiful and well worth the visit.

Marinha beach. We swam around the rocks at the far end.

We had lunch at a lovely cliff top spot, off a dirt road. Then on to a campsite in the western Algarve, at Salema. It had already started up ACSI discounts and at 11 euro a night was a bit of a bargain. We were ready for some campsite vegging time.

2nd September

After doing the washing and all the boring catch-up stuff we got the bikes off and cycled the short distance downhill into Salema. Had a good lunch by the beach and went for a swim (though I think Marinha beach has spoilt us for swimming anywhere else). Then cycled uphill back to the campsite.

3rd September

Just lazed around the campsite all day, doing a bit of planning etc. Our pitch had shade for most of the day so was pretty perfect in that respect. I got a fair amount of writing done too.

4th September

Today in the morning I had a radio interview scheduled with Talk Radio Europe to promote my new book (The Girl from Ballymor, out 7th September!!) Must admit I was pretty nervous about it even though it was to be pre-recorded. I was glad when it was over. We packed up and left when this was done, driving just a short way along the coast to Cabo de Sao Vicente or Portugal’s answer to Land’s End.

lands end
At Cabo de Sao Vicente

Had a look around here then went to nearby Sagres where we explored the fort, walked around the headland and into the tiny town. We spent the night at the fort’s car park along with quite a lot of other campervans. As the sun went down we strolled along the cliff top to watch the sunset. I love this corner of Portugal!

5th September

We drove up the west coast, calling at a couple of beaches on the way, but didn’t swim. These beaches are much rougher than those on the south coast, and cater for surfers. At the first we had coffee and walked along the beach and over the rocks. It reminded me of Cornish or Devon beaches. At the second we sat on the cliff top and had lunch, watching the surfers.

And then a long drive inland and north to Evora in the Alentejo region. We stopped for the night a few miles outside the town, at a megalithic stone circle surrounded by cork oaks. Magical place!

stone circle
Almendres stone circle

6th September

After a morning wander around the stone circle we drove into Evora and parked up just outside the medieval town walls. It’s much much hotter here than on the coast, although the night was cool.

Walked up through the town, visited the Chapel of Bones (not a design feature you’d want in your own home) and the associated museum, then the cathedral (bit uninspiring after Seville) and the roman baths which were discovered under the town hall of all places. Had a very pleasant lunch out, actually inside, in air conditioning, as they don’t have the Seville style outdoor aircon here!

chapel of bones
Chapel of Bones. Many of the skulls were tiny – presumably children.

Left mid-afternoon and drove back to the coast, north of Lisbon. We’re skipping Lisbon as we have been before and large cities aren’t good in campervans. We’re parked for the night on a cliff stop near Santa Cruz, listening to the roar of the ocean. Substantially cooler here – needed a fleece for our evening walk along the beach!

Tonight’s sunset over the Atlantic

One more little problem has occurred today – the habitation door lock won’t work from the outside. Which means we have to lock it from the inside and go out through the driver’s door. Another problem which happened back in June is that the driver’s door handle is broken and won’t open from the inside. So getting in and out of the van and securing it is a bit of a logic puzzle now.


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